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Ellen Weeton's travels in Wales - 200 years on

Two hundred years ago, Ellen Weeton embarked on one of many adventures – this time to North Wales. Recorded in her diary which we hold in the Edward Hall collection, the entries for May to July 1825 reveal a woman ahead of her time. Streetwise, independent, willing to risk solo travel, and with an insatiable appetite for walking, she couldn’t be further from the stereotype of the delicate, drawing-room-dwelling lady of the early nineteenth century.

Ellen, at this point in her life, had endured years of adversity: brutality from her husband, betrayal by her brother, and estrangement from her beloved daughter, Mary. The joy and vibrancy of her entries are even more remarkable considering the suffering she endured.  

Over the next few weeks we’ll be publishing extracts from Miss Weeton: Governess and Traveller, a collection of her writings edited by Alan Roby.  It is available from Archives: Wigan & Leigh and Amazon.  

May 1825

Ellen landed at Garth Ferry (for Bangor). Her immediate priority was to find suitable lodgings; a task much harder than she had expected. The problems were a combination of language and price. Many of the residents spoke no English and many asked extravagant prices. At last she discovered a ‘respectable-looking’ man by the name of Mr William Pritchard, and his house-keeper. She agreed a price of six shillings for a week’s bed and board. After tea she strolled towards the Menai Suspension Bridge about two miles away, before returning to sleep very comfortably in her bed, convinced that it was free from ‘dampness, bugs or fleas’.

 

22 May 1825 – I arose quite refreshed. I wonder how it is, that at 48 years of age, I should have so much of the elasticity of youth, both in body and mind; for I am as playful as a child. I went to a congregational chapel at half-past 10. I was too soon; the place was filled with men and boys. I felt quite confused at being the only female, for they were employed in teaching and learning Welsh. At 11, they every one went out, and for a few minutes I was left totally alone, expecting to be locked in if I had not my wits about me. Soon, an entirely different class entered, and a preacher, and the service was conducted in English.

23rd May Monday morning, after breakfast, I went to see the pillar erected in honour of the Marquis of Anglesea, beyond the new bridge at Bangor Ferry. I crossed the ferry in company with 3 or 4 horses, and 2 as wild Welsh cows as ever were ferried over, beside a number of men and women. I had a very extensice prospect from the top of the rock on which the pillar is erected. After dinner, I walked down to the shore at Garth Ferry, strolled over the hill above it, and amused myself with my spying glass, remaining some hours.

24^th May Wrote to Miss Dalrymple this morning. She is the only person who has asked me to write during this journey, and I shall therefore, I think, write to no other. Not a person in England knows at this moment where I am, or appears to care. How we are neglected when we are in adversity! What anxiety would there be about me, were I affluent! Oh, my Mary, if ever you read this, feel for your mother, and be grateful for those who shewed her kindness.